Standard QC is AQL 2.5 for major defects, AQL 4.0 for minor. Schedule pre-shipment inspection (PSI) at 80% production completion. SGS, Bureau Veritas, Intertek and local inspectors charge USD 250-500 per man-day.
- AQL major
- 2.5
- AQL minor
- 4.0
- Inspection trigger
- 80% complete
- Cost per man-day
- USD 250-500
Three QC stages
Inline inspection during production (week 2-3) catches construction errors early. Mid-production inspection (50% complete) verifies fit and fabric quality. Pre-shipment inspection (80-100% complete) signs off the final lot.
Skipping inline inspection is the #1 cause of late-stage QC failures. Schedule at least one mid-production visit for orders above 500 pieces.
AQL sampling explained
AQL (Acceptable Quality Limit) defines acceptable defect rates by lot size. AQL 2.5 means 2.5% major defects acceptable; AQL 4.0 means 4% minor defects. For 1,000 pieces, that means inspecting 80 random pieces and accepting up to 5 major or 7 minor defects.
Critical defects (broken stitches in load-bearing seams, holes, severe colour deviation) require zero-defect tolerance. Define what constitutes critical in writing.
Common defects in Turkish production
Colour shading between cut bundles (especially for denim and dyed yarns), measurement variance (chest, sleeve length), trim alignment, label positioning and stitch density.
For knitwear, watch yarn breaks, hole spots, panel measurement variance. For denim, watch wash colour consistency, hand-feel, and back pocket placement.
Hiring an inspector
Local Turkish QC firms (Pizdal, IP Inspection, Cisco) charge USD 150-300 per man-day. International firms (SGS, BV, Intertek) charge USD 250-500. Quality is comparable; the difference is reporting format.
For first orders with new factories, use an international firm for the audit-grade report. For repeat orders, local QC is fine for cost efficiency.
Reading inspection reports
A standard PSI report includes: lot definition, sample size by AQL, defects found by category, photos, measurement variance, packaging check, carton marking. Demand all sections.
If defects exceed AQL, options are: rework (factory cost), discount accept (negotiate price), reject lot (factory absorbs). Specify in the PI which option applies by defect type.
When to skip QC and when not to
Skip third-party QC only for repeat orders from factories with 3+ successful shipments. Even then, schedule annual unannounced audits to catch quality drift.
Always require third-party QC for: first orders, orders above USD 30,000, embellishment-heavy programs, and any goods destined for major retailer compliance frameworks.